Larb | A Dish that Speaks of Home and the Journey Forward

Nat's Larb Dish at Restaurant Evett, Seoul

This Larb holds a very special place in my heart. Sure, a version of it got me to London after being the winning dish in the first episode of MasterChef Australia this season, but what makes this dish truly remarkable is the deep roots it holds, the stories it tells, and the places it showcases.

Larb originated in Laos, but back then, Laos and Thailand were interconnected. Being raised by relatives from the northeastern region of Thailand, it was no surprise that Larb became one of the most common dishes at our dinner table. To this day, it's still one of my favourite Thai dishes. What I love about Larb is how versatile it is. While we often see it made with grilled meats, in Thailand we also use offal, seafood, or even seasonal fruits and veggies. In the mountainous regions, you'll find mushroom Larb, and in Northern Thailand, where Chinese and Burmese influences are strong, you'll encounter a completely different blend of ground spices in the dish.

What’s incredible about Larb—and Thai food in general—is how adaptable it is. Each region has its own version, honouring the place, time, produce, and season that define it. That was the mindset I brought to Seoul, where I collaborated with Restaurant Evett for a unique menu.

I wanted to showcase the Thai way of thinking and my upbringing in crafting dishes. My process may seem unconventional—I work backwards. I start with researching local ingredients, then visit markets, go foraging, and chat with locals before I begin writing the menu. I made it a point that over 90% of the ingredients used in my dishes would be sourced from South Korea, avoiding imports altogether. This approach was made possible thanks to Joseph and his team at Evett, who are as dedicated to this ethos as I am.

People might assume that being in Asia makes it easy to find Southeast Asian ingredients, but it’s actually more difficult than sourcing them in Australia! However, what this challenge reveals is the beauty of discovering local alternatives. For example, the versions of fish sauce and soy sauce in Korea are just as rich in character. To tie in my own roots, I brought along some dried Australian

For my snack dish, I created a Kelp Croustade of Hanwoo Beef Larb, Kimchi-Cured Quail Egg, Crumbed Beef Intestines seasoned with Tasmanian Pepperberry and Old Man's Saltbush, and foraged ants. 

Yes, ants.

During a trip into the mountains outside Seoul, Joseph handed me some ants. I let them crawl on my hand and, in the spirit of adventure, licked them off. To my surprise, they tasted exactly like the combination of lemongrass and makrut lime leaf—two ingredients traditionally used in Larb. This was one of those mind-blowing moments that forever alters how you think about flavours.

I also aimed for sustainability and zero waste with the menu. After making kelp oil for a cold eel dish, I dehydrated the leftover kelp and used it in the croustade mix, creating a crispy element to serve the Larb tartare. The quail eggs were cured using Evett’s own kimchi brine mixed with Kisoondo CheongJang, a traditional Korean sauce we learned to make ourselves.

Hanwoo beef was the star ingredient for this dish. In Seoul, this revered local beef had to take centre stage. I balanced its richness with Tasmanian Pepperberry and Saltbush, both sourced from Nathan owner of Naway Yila Buradja and CEO of the National Indigenous Culinary Institute of Australia. And, of course, I couldn’t resist adding offal, a practice deeply embedded in both Thai and Asian cuisines. I dehydrated the beef intestines and garnished them with native spices, creating a perfect umami blend that balanced the Hanwoo beef tartare.

When I stood in the kitchen explaining this dish to the staff at Evett, I had a little proud moment. It was a dish that captured where Larb has taken me—through life, across continents, and into kitchens where I've continued to grow as a chef. It's not just about how to eat Larb, but how the dish has transformed alongside me. It's a reflection of who I am and who I’m working to become as a chef.